Lots of good stuff in this thread.
Secondly, all of our critical or expensive electronic equipment is plugged into a surge protector, including printers. I don't really understand the printer maker's recommendation not to use a surge strip, I suspect their concern is that a low quality surge strip may have undersized wiring, and cause a voltage drop to the printer, or that numerous items may be plugged into it, again in a poorly designed surge protector this could cause problems. But one printer plugged into a surge strip, plugged into a wall outlet, can't possibly cause a problem, and may save the equipment during an overvoltage. It did save ours!
Those are the main concerns. Lots of outlets share the same circuit. They want to make sure you don't plug your printer and your computer on the same circuit in case there is a drop in voltage while the printer powers on. That would shutoff the computer. Also, most circuits are 15A x 120V = 1800W watts max. Back in the day when computers and screens weren't energy efficient, you could reach that maximum and trip the breaker. (Many outlets share the same circuit.)
Your strategy is great. Surge protectors everywhere. The voltage tolerances on those things are so high so anyone saying that they might trip due to some device pulling too much or too little is just not true. They have very high tolerances and are mainly designed to prevent damage rather than conditioning. In a major over voltage, those are the best defense against losing expensive devices.
Finally, as also mentioned above, test your UPs. I just pull the UPS plug out of the wall, see if the computer will stay on, and give it 15 or 20 min. to make sure battery life is sufficient. Last year Sandeep indicated concern about this method, he was concerned about loss of grounding when you pull the plug. But when you pull the plug, you are disconnected from power, so you don't need grounding. Sandeep mentioned that there would be a possibility of a stray current coming in through an ethernet cable or so forth.
One of the biggest confusions in electrical circuits is the difference between an Earth and a Ground. The ground reference of all electronics is not necessarily at the same potential as the Earth depending on the design. There's an Earth ground and a Chassis Ground. The Earth ground and Chassis ground can be the same thing. But in high end electronics, the power supply can have its own ground level (potential) which is different from the Earth (hence the reason it is referred to as a floating ground.) Without getting too technical, this design of a separate ground allows a device to better resist interference. So, basically, if you remove that Earth ground, you or one of your devices may become the path of least resistance
since the Earth ground is no longer part of the circuit. (e.g. when a UPS runs on battery power while it is unplugged.)
O and the thing about dirty power from UPS's. That's not really an issue today with "pure" sinewave UPS's available. Cyberpower's Pure Sinewave models have been even found to have power that is almost identical to the output of the wall. The reality is that most modern PSUs are designed to handle the approximated step waves anyways. Look it up on youtube. They deliver.
Tripplite also makes some good stuff. I use cyberpower in the budget range (Pure Sine Wave models from amazon, free shipping) and vary brands in the enterprise range (we have 250V NEMA 6-30 outlets in our office for running server racks.) I learn towards Tripplite because that's usually where I get my server racks.
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